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Thread: Plumbng the depth and shot patterns-help for a newbie

  1. #1

    Default Plumbng the depth and shot patterns-help for a newbie

    Hello,

    I had a question about plumbing the depth. I'm fishing for small fish carp tench etc about 3-7lbs. I've managed to plumb the depth I just wanted to know if I have it right.

    I've plumed so about a 1/2 to 1/4 inch of the waggler tip is above the (still) water with the plummet on the end. Hook length is attached. When placing the tell tale or drop shot i.e the one closest to the hook, does this tell tale shot sit touching the bottom or a few inches above the hook with the hook just touching the bottom?


    Hope that makes sense.

    Many thanks,

    James

  2. #2
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    youtube

    How to float fish Matt Hayes. one of the better info videos on there.
    the full 1 1/2 hour version

  3. #3
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    First of all, regardless of what any articles, videos etc tell you, do NOT plumb the depth with shot on the line. If you really must, fix your waggler with two small shot which will not, on their own, c0ck the float. The reason should be obvious, but sadly is not; if you put enough shot on the line to c0ck the float to (say) half inch above the surface, and you put a plummet on the hook and cast out, how do you know if you are set overdepth? You don't. If the float disappears, you're underdepth, but anywhere between correct depth and an infinite amount over, the float will c0ck the same amount. Do the same with no shot, or just two small locking shot, and the float will lie flat if overdepth, sink out of sight if under, and stand upright if nearly correct. You can then adjust it so just the amount you want visible shows, knowing that when you shot it up to c0ck to that amount and take the plummet off, the hook will be just touching bottom. From there, you can adjust for fishing off bottom or overdepth, as desired.

    As to whether the lowest shot should be on or off bottom, this depends on what presentation you are trying to achieve. For example, suppose you want to present a bait just touching bottom, you might put the lowest (telltale) shot a foot away from the hook to start, and adjust closer if you are getting bites you're not seeing, or further if not getting bites at all. Conversely, if there's some drift which causes the float to drag to one side, taking the bait with it, you might set the float 18" overdepth with the telltale shot 24" from the hook (or 6" above bottom). If that doesn't hold it in place, move the shot down 12" so it rests on bottom.

    Those are simplistic examples, not set in stone. The only way to learn is to spend years trying various permutations, or a few days on the bank with someone who really knows what they're about (i.e a match angler!) I have fished four feet overdepth in less than three feet of water before now, with one or two shot a foot from the hook (and thus three feet further from the float than the depth of water) resting on bottom, in order to hold a bait still against a heavy drag. Most conditions can be overcome with the right arrangement of float, shot and depth, without resorting to leger, or Polaris float - and it need not be insensitive; get the balance right and it takes very little effort on the part of the fish to cause the whole set-up to shift, showing a quite dramatic movement on the float. One other point: I often see people fish a straight peac0ck waggler well overdepth with a no 8 or 10 shot as a telltale. Quite what function this shot serves escapes me; if a fish lifts the bait and this shot, it makes so little difference on the float it cannot be seen from the bank. The telltale for any float should really be of a size that shows a visible effect on the float, so you might use an 8 or 10 on a fine-tipped antenna, but as a big as a no 1 or BB with a fat peac0ck waggler.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by gloucesteroldspot View Post
    First of all, regardless of what any articles, videos etc tell you, do NOT plumb the depth with shot on the line. If you really must, fix your waggler with two small shot which will not, on their own, c0ck the float. The reason should be obvious, but sadly is not; if you put enough shot on the line to c0ck the float to (say) half inch above the surface, and you put a plummet on the hook and cast out, how do you know if you are set overdepth? You don't. If the float disappears, you're underdepth, but anywhere between correct depth and an infinite amount over, the float will c0ck the same amount. Do the same with no shot, or just two small locking shot, and the float will lie flat if overdepth, sink out of sight if under, and stand upright if nearly correct. You can then adjust it so just the amount you want visible shows, knowing that when you shot it up to c0ck to that amount and take the plummet off, the hook will be just touching bottom. From there, you can adjust for fishing off bottom or overdepth, as desired.

    As to whether the lowest shot should be on or off bottom, this depends on what presentation you are trying to achieve. For example, suppose you want to present a bait just touching bottom, you might put the lowest (telltale) shot a foot away from the hook to start, and adjust closer if you are getting bites you're not seeing, or further if not getting bites at all. Conversely, if there's some drift which causes the float to drag to one side, taking the bait with it, you might set the float 18" overdepth with the telltale shot 24" from the hook (or 6" above bottom). If that doesn't hold it in place, move the shot down 12" so it rests on bottom.

    Those are simplistic examples, not set in stone. The only way to learn is to spend years trying various permutations, or a few days on the bank with someone who really knows what they're about (i.e a match angler!) I have fished four feet overdepth in less than three feet of water before now, with one or two shot a foot from the hook (and thus three feet further from the float than the depth of water) resting on bottom, in order to hold a bait still against a heavy drag. Most conditions can be overcome with the right arrangement of float, shot and depth, without resorting to leger, or Polaris float - and it need not be insensitive; get the balance right and it takes very little effort on the part of the fish to cause the whole set-up to shift, showing a quite dramatic movement on the float. One other point: I often see people fish a straight peac0ck waggler well overdepth with a no 8 or 10 shot as a telltale. Quite what function this shot serves escapes me; if a fish lifts the bait and this shot, it makes so little difference on the float it cannot be seen from the bank. The telltale for any float should really be of a size that shows a visible effect on the float, so you might use an 8 or 10 on a fine-tipped antenna, but as a big as a no 1 or BB with a fat peac0ck waggler.
    Very interesting post. I enjoyed that. Everyone should learn how to floatfish.

    One of my most prized possesions when I was a young angler was "Ivan Marks on floatfishing".

  5. #5
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    I used to keep a small float rubber attached to the top of my wagglers for easy plumbing. A small loop of line can be pulled back through the rubber while plumbing so that the float is temporarily fixed top and bottom. Once the required depth is found its then just a simple case of popping a couple shot on at the base and pulling the loop back out of the float rubber.
    The same method can be applied by twisting a small loop into the line and teasing this over the top of the waggler while plumbing the swim.

  6. #6

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    Cheers Gloucesteroldspot, so to summarise my understanding:

    So for a 2AAA WAGGLER you only want to put 2xAAA shots around the float as your bulk shot, and then a smaller say no 8 shot a foot or so away from the hook to act as your tell-tale shot.

    Before shotting, shot the float with two light locking shots and attach the plummet and plumb the dept
    When happy, re shot the float in same position but with 2xAAA shots around the float so it ****s correctly.

    Then if I want to fish on the bottom, add a lighter shot so a no 8 shot a foot or so away from the hook and then cast.

    Sorry for daft questions it's just been so long since I've done it as a kid

    Cheers

    J

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